|  To determine if you have spruce spider mites, hold a piece of white 
			paper under a branch and shake it. The mites will look like moving 
			dust specks on the paper. Many times, there will be some fine 
			webbing, like spider web, visible on the needles as well. Spruce 
			spider mites can be controlled with sprays of acequinocyl, 
			bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, insecticidal soap or summer oil spray. The 
			soap or oil sprays will require a second application about a week 
			later to give good control. These mites normally remain active until 
			mid-May, but the cool conditions may extend their life cycle. These 
			mites will again be active in the cool fall weather. Spruce trees 
			have a multitude of other problems they may encounter, so the spruce 
			spider mites may only be a contributing factor. Some of the other 
			problems are Rhizoshphaera needle cast, Stigmina needle blight, 
			different root and butt rots, Cytospora canker, sudden needle drop, 
			Weir's spruce cushion rust, spruce galls, and bagworms. For online 
			descriptions of each of the spruce problems mentioned, see
			
			http://web.extension.illinois.edu/plantclinic/downloads/Plant%20Clinic%20Report%20
 Spruce.pdf.
 
			
			 Other spring pests are also indicated by the saucer magnolia. 
			During the bloom stage, just finishing now, the ash plant bug, fall 
			cankerworm, spring cankerworm, Fletcher scale, leaf crumpler, 
			eastern tent caterpillar, juniper webworm and Zimmerman pine moth 
			are susceptible to control. As we get to the petal fall stage, 
			European pine sawfly, Gypsy moth, hawthorn mealybug, honeylocust pod 
			gall and willow aphid become susceptible to control. Reminders 
			[to top of second column] | 
 
			 
				
				We have missed the 
				first batch of crabgrass germination. Control is still possible 
				with one of the organic arsenicals such as MSMA or DSMA sprayed 
				on the recently germinated crabgrass, but it does stress the 
				desirable grasses and may turn them some different shades of 
				blue or green.
				Broadleaf control 
				is just around the corner for many weeds. Look at early May for 
				control.
				Grub control is 
				largely unsuccessful in the spring because of large grub size 
				and a short life cycle. Look to August and September for grub 
				control.
				Moles are active, 
				but controlling the grubs won't help much now. Look to a noose 
				or scissor trap, or one of the soft baits with poison for 
				control. 
				The average last 
				killing frost date is about May 5 for our area, and many 
				gardening charts use May 10 for planting tender crops in our 
				area. This would include squash, peppers, tomatoes, green beans 
				and others.
				Prune flowering 
				shrubs after they are done flowering. This will promote growth 
				and hopefully maximize your flowers for next year.
				If you are interested in using the 
				soil-applied treatment for Japanese beetle control on ornamental 
				trees and shrubs, the earlier applications allow for better 
				distribution in the plants. These treatments will not eliminate 
				damage, but will reduce it by 50-75 percent since beetles must 
				feed until they consume enough of the insecticide in the leaves.
				 
			
              
            [By 
			JOHN FULTON, 
			University of Illinois Extension] |