 When we look at our average frost-free date, we see that it is April
25. About half the time in the last 30 years, the average last
spring killing frost has occurred by that date. This also means that
about half the time it hasn't. The first week of May commonly sees a
killing frost. Many annual flowers, tomato plants and other
warm-season plants should not be set out until after May 10.Those
selling transplants love those of us who like to buy these plants in
early to mid-April. More years than not, they get to sell us at
least two sets of transplants. Of course, all bets are off if you
use protective covers -- such as milk jugs, row covers or
wall-of-water types of protection. Usually it is just as easy to
wait until the recommended date, and that would be after the range
of April 25-May 10 for green beans, sweet corn and tomatoes. These
are all considered "tender vegetables."
There is still time to start a few of your own transplants, and
this is especially true if you are willing to wait an extra week to
set them out. You can also set them out at a smaller size with the
protective covers mentioned above. Eggplant, herbs, pepper and
tomato would be started about March 25. Cucumber, muskmelon and
watermelon are started as early as April 15. The rule of thumb is to
allow about six weeks before you want to set the plants outside.
Melons, peppers, pumpkin and squash are considered "warm-loving"
and should be planted in the range of May 10- June 1. Pumpkins
planted for Halloween jack-o'-lanterns should be planted about
Father's Day. These pumpkins will get ripe too quickly for use in
late October if planted at the normal time. Pumpkins for pies can be
planted in the May 10-June 1 period.
Any time now, when soil conditions permit, it is time to plant
things such as asparagus crowns, leaf lettuce, onions, peas,
potatoes, radishes, rhubarb plants, spinach and turnips. Give it
another week or two and it is time to plant such things as broccoli,
cabbage and cauliflower. As with most things, a little bit of
planning goes a long way in preventing problems later on.
[to top of second column] |
Questions abound regarding fertilizing the garden. The
rule-of-thumb rate (without soil test information) for fertilizing
flower or vegetable gardens is about 15 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000
square feet of area. If you are using 12-12-12 or 13-13-13
fertilizer, use about 12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.
Soil pH may need to be adjusted due to the addition of lime and
sulfur, which are acidifying. Generally, about 4.25 pounds of lime
neutralizes the acidity from 1 pound of nitrogen or sulfur. Beware
of pH requirements for different plants before you go out to apply
lime. Surrounding plants are also affected. Examples would be
blueberries, rhododendron, azalea, pin oaks and many evergreens.
Reminders
-
If you haven't
applied crabgrass preventer, you have a very short window. It
should be on about the time the forsythia blooms, but
don't apply if you seeded your lawn. You can use a post-emergent
product if germination occurred and immature crabgrass is
present.
-
When it's time to
mow, remove no more than one-third of the leaf blade at a time
to prevent raking or catching clippings.
-
Cut back butterfly
bushes to live material, with a 10-inch maximum height.
-
Cut back mums, but
leave 2 inches of dead material since much stored food is
located there.
-
Cut back ornamental grasses to a height
of 4 inches or so.
[By
JOHN FULTON,
University of Illinois Extension] |
